FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
I'M NEW TO SPEARFISHING AND I WANT TO BUY A RIFFE. HOWEVER, I'M CONFUSED WHICH ONE TO PICK, THE COMPETITOR OR THE EURO. YOUR HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
Both guns are very similar in performance the choice is really what type of handle you are looking for. The euro style guns shoot very much like a pistol and the smaller handle is very comfortable in the hand. The low-profile stocks are made with 3 vertical laminated teak strips and bolted front muzzle for added strength. Models E-90 & E-100 have a full radius barrel. Longer models, E-110 & E-120 have a corner rounded barrel for more beam strength.
The Competitor Teak and Competition Mahogany Series Spearguns are designed for competition and entry-level divers, suitable for hunting around reefs, holes, and on the bottom. The Competitor Series has three teak laminates, the Mahogany is a solid stock. You will not be disappointed in either so best of luck and enjoy.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TAHITIAN AND HAWAIIAN FLOPPERS? WHY CHOSE ONE OVER THE OTHER?
Tahitian means the barbs are on top of the shaft.Hawaiian means the Flopper is on the bottom of the shaft.
Some divers like to be able to see that their Flopper is working properly and doesn’t have a bit of sand in the barb keeping it from opening so they prefer the Hawaiian style flopper. Others prefer their Floppers on the top (Tahitian) so when they look down the shaft when aiming they see a very streamlined view. As well, Tahitian flopper believers fear that a flopper on the bottom of the shaft if stuck downwards will alter the flight of the shaft due to the drag of the open flopper. If you are check your gear constantly you will be assured that your flopper is working properly and this won’t even be a concern.
WHAT SIZE BANDS DO I NEED FOR MY RIFFE SPEARGUN?
On our website is a chart that shows the recommended band sizes for each of our guns. While these set-ups have been proven they may not be for every diver.
Some divers have longer arms, are stronger, or more flexible than others so finding the right band set up for the individual is important and encouraged. Longer bands, smaller diameter, two stronger instead of three lighter or vice versa, one long and one shorter band, etc etc. The possibilities are limitless. You can change the bands on your gun to see what works best. For example, a 130 Euro gun with 3 x 9/16″ bands. two long bands (32″) and one shorter (29.5″) most anyone can cock and it has a very smooth silent release that is perfect for long shots on Wahoo and other pelagics.
I CAN'T COCK MY GUN BECAUSE THE BANDS ARE TOO TIGHT. SHOULD I GET A SMALLER GUN?
Anyone should be able to cock any gun no matter what the size. The key is having the right bands on it so they are light enough or long enough that you can reach them and bring them all the way back to the notches. The first thing we suggest is that people get the next larger (length) sized bands from their dive shop. Another idea is to get the same bands in a smaller diameter. For example: If you have a 110 EuroX gun with (2) 5/8″ (16mm) X 26″ (66cm) rubbers that come stock and the bands feel too strong for you. Order or ask your dive shop for 5/8″ x 28″ (71cm) rubbers. Or get three 9/16″ x 26″ rubbers. The lighter rubbers will be much easier to pull back and also provide for a very smooth release of the shaft while still maintaining the power needed for long shots.
HOW DO I KNOW WHAT MODEL SPEARGUN I HAVE?
Your serial number, located on the rear stock near your butt end includes which model speargun you have. It also determines the date of manufacture. The first 3-4 numbers are the month and year of manufacture. Following is the model number (example: C1 = competitor #1 or just the number 3 would be the Standard #3, unless the speargun is metal). The last numbers are the batch numbers for our records.
CAN I UPGRADE MY POWER BANDS?
You may upgrade your band size in most cases. Typically you want to keep the length the same, just go up in diameter. You will notice more punch and may need to readjust your aim.
HOW DO I RIG THE LINE ON MY SPEARGUN?
The line is attached to the aft end of the spear. With the shaft already in the mechanism, run the line forward along the shaft towards the front left side of the gun. On the left side of the Muzzle of the gun there is a small metal piece with two screws through that is called the line tab. Run the line underneath that piece of metal and then across the top of the spear shaft from left to right. The line is now at the very front of the gun and now is lead straight down over the front end of the gun in a small groove you will see there that goes from the top to bottom of the barrel. Now that the line is at the bottom of the gun, run it towards the back of the gun. Near the handle on the right side of the stock you will see a small silver piece of metal sticking out. Your line will run around this piece of metal so it once more is heading forward towards the front of the gun and now attaches to the snap swivel and bungee attached to the other metal line catch underneath the front of the gun.
For double wrapped guns: run the line around the forward line catch (underneath the gun) back to the line release and then attach to the snap swivel and bungee at front of gun.
REEL OR BUNGEE OR FLOAT LINE? WHICH DO I NEED FOR WHERE I AM HUNTING?
Reels are best utilized in shallow water where there is current or structure that would tangle float lines or cause too much drag to effectively dive. They are very effective in Kelp, around oil Rigs, and diving around shipwrecks, jetties, and bridges. In bluewater they are good for paddy hopping and shooting smaller fish like Mahi Mahi, Yellowtail, Small Wahoo, Uluas etc.
Vinyl Float Line Assemblies are the most versatile of securing systems as they can take abrasion and be used with or without buoys and in almost any dive situation.. A Float line allows you to shoot at any depth and let go of your gear allowing for a free ascent to the surface. With your gun and shaft (or rigged for break away just the shaft) attached to a float line and then to a buoy on the surface you can fight the fish from the surface. When rigged like this you don’t have to fight them with only a limited amount of line on a reel. This rig is good for any type of diving situation and the most basic and highly suggested.
Bungee Float Line Assemblies are a float line made of stretchy material that will stretch to around 2.5 times its original length. Inside of the stretchy material is tuna cord which is triple the length of the bungee. In this way a speared fish will stretch out the bungee slowly causing more and more drag until it reaches 2.5 times its length (250 ft for a 100 ft bungee). For bluewater fish this allows resistance which effectively fights the fish without causing too much pressure which may tear these soft fleshed fish. For Bluewater hunting a Bungee is a must. It is not recommended except in short lengths added to a float line when diving around bridges, oil rigs and other abrasive structures which may damage the material.
HOW MANY FLOATS DO I NEED FOR BLUEWATER HUNTING TUNA AND WAHOO? DO I REALLY NEED A 3 ATM FLOAT?
As a good rule of thumb figure one float per 100lbs of the fish you are hunting. Almost any Wahoo, Mahi Mahi, King Mackerel, you can manage with a single float of either kind as long as you have plenty of bungee and the fish don’t run deep. Keep in mind when you are bluewater hunting you always have the chance of running into a Tuna or Marlin of 100-500 lbs. These species tend to run very deep very fast and it is advisable to have at least a 3 ATM float to better you chances of ever seeing your gear again.
For Bluewater hunting Tunas less than 100 lbs, Mahi Mahi, Wahoo, Mackerel, and yellowtail , 75 feet of bungee attached to a single 3 ATM float. If you move on to where there will be 200-400 lb Tunas and marlin, we suggest rigging a 100 ft bungee, 3 atm float, 25 ft bungee, 3 atm float, 10 ft bungee and either a 3 atm or Riffe Torpedo float. With this rig dozens of tuna have successfully been landed over 200 lbs with no gear lost.