The Competitor Series Spearguns are designed for competition and entry-level divers. They are a more affordable version of the Standard Series, suitable for hunting around reefs, holes, and on the bottom. The Competitor Series has three teak laminates, except Competitor #4 & #4X, which have four for added strength. You will not be disappointed in either so best of luck and enjoy.
Hawaiian means the Flopper is on the bottom of the shaft.
Some divers like to be able to see that their Flopper is working properly and doesn’t have a bit of sand in the barb keeping it from opening so they prefer the Hawaiian style flopper. Others prefer their Floppers on the top (Tahitian) so when they look down the shaft when aiming they see a very streamlined view. As well, Tahitian flopper believers fear that a flopper on the bottom of the shaft if stuck downwards will alter the flight of the shaft due to the drag of the open flopper. If you are check your gear constantly you will be assured that your flopper is working properly and this won’t even be a concern.
Some divers have longer arms, are stronger, or more flexible than others so finding the right band set up for the individual is important and encouraged. Longer bands, smaller diameter, two stronger instead of three lighter or vice versa, one long and one shorter band, etc etc. The possibilities are limitless. You can change the bands on your gun to see what works best. For example, a 130 Euro gun with 3 x 9/16″ bands. two long bands (32″) and one shorter (29.5″) most anyone can cock and it has a very smooth silent release that is perfect for long shots on Wahoo and other pelagics.
For double wrapped guns: run the line around the forward line catch (underneath the gun) back to the line release and then attach to the snap swivel and bungee at front of gun.
Vinyl Float Line Assemblies are the most versatile of securing systems as they can take abrasion and be used with or without buoys and in almost any dive situation.. A Float line allows you to shoot at any depth and let go of your gear allowing for a free ascent to the surface. With your gun and shaft (or rigged for break away just the shaft) attached to a float line and then to a buoy on the surface you can fight the fish from the surface. When rigged like this you don’t have to fight them with only a limited amount of line on a reel. This rig is good for any type of diving situation and the most basic and highly suggested.
Bungee Float Line Assemblies are a float line made of stretchy material that will stretch to around 2.5 times its original length. Inside of the stretchy material is tuna cord which is triple the length of the bungee. In this way a speared fish will stretch out the bungee slowly causing more and more drag until it reaches 2.5 times its length (250 ft for a 100 ft bungee). For bluewater fish this allows resistance which effectively fights the fish without causing too much pressure which may tear these soft fleshed fish. For Bluewater hunting a Bungee is a must. It is not recommended except in short lengths added to a float line when diving around bridges, oil rigs and other abrasive structures which may damage the material.
For Bluewater hunting Tunas less than 100 lbs, Mahi Mahi, Wahoo, Mackerel, and yellowtail , 75 feet of bungee attached to a single 3 ATM float. If you move on to where there will be 200-400 lb Tunas and marlin, we suggest rigging a 100 ft bungee, 3 atm float, 25 ft bungee, 3 atm float, 10 ft bungee and either a 3 atm or Riffe Torpedo float. With this rig dozens of tuna have successfully been landed over 200 lbs with no gear lost.